Pleasure of Pattern Making


It is a funny thing, but I used to make clothes as fast as possible.  I was looking forward to seeing the finished piece once I started sewing. I do not know whether that happens to many sewers, but I have noticed that I am changing. As I get more experienced in the whole process of creating clothes, I do not mind taking plenty of time to design, make the pattern and sew now.


I wanted to make a lightweight and comfortable puffy jacket because I have not found the design I like in shops. I tend to design an unusual style, but for this purpose, I wanted to focus on practicality rather than making an individual design.


I drew a quick sketch and made the sewing pattern with my teacher. Then I made the first trial but did not like it. I thought the hand-drawn design was not too bad, but the sample did not look as good as I hoped. I thought about some fixation, but after all, I decided to not to use the pattern for this attempt.



I started to plan for a new design with a cowl-necked coat. We often see cowl neck tops in shops, but we do not see the jacket or coat versions of it. So, I wanted to challenge to make one with the “pattern-making” process. Using my measurement sloper would get a better fit rather than using a mannequin to make its pattern in “draping technique”.


With a cowl neck top, there is always a “V-shaped” space under the neck on the front. I wanted to make a standing collar coat. To make a stand-collar, I had to cover that v-space. I had to try hard to come up with the ideas to create and finish the pattern.

The main fabric is called “pleather” which is stretchy and the appearance of it is good. I used knit fabric for the outer sleeve and the internal collar. For the lining, I used cotton-rayon. The whole cost of lining was quite expensive, but to me, a lining was also an essential part of constructing clothes, so I did not want to compromise and get some cheap fabric for it.


Here is my result.




In the end, I did not sandwich any puff nor wadding between the main fabric and the lining. In the construction process, I could not make the draped cowl stand out when I put wadding under the “Pleather”. Yes, I did a lot of trial sewing and unpicking. But it was worthwhile I took the time to finish the way I wanted. I hope I am getting wiser in designing and creating clothing with not rushing to the end.




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